Two Days in Johannesburg + Soweto by Bike
Johannesburg might not be the first place you’d consider for a honeymoon, but as the international gateway to South Africa, it’s our starting point before heading off to the safari lodges. South Africa’s history is marred by turbulence, and the echoes of its past are still visible, particularly in the townships. Yet, the warmth and friendliness of South Africans shine through.
Safety is definitely a concern here, but with the right precautions, we manage to pack our two-day stopover with memorable experiences. Here’s a glimpse into our Johannesburg adventure.
(L:) Cycling through the streets of Soweto.
(R:) A local dance troupe performs a traditional dance for us opposite Nelson Mandela’s house.
Johannesburg Tips in short
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South African Rand. Currency exchange shops in South Africa, both at the airport and in town, provided terrible exchange rates, so we resorted to withdrawing cash from ATMs with a ~A$4 fee.
By withdrawing more at a time, we reduced how often we paid the fee. You will likely need to have some cash for tipping at hotels and restaurants and at the markets. If you go on safari, you’ll need even more to tip the ranger, spotter (if applicable) and resort staff. Small change notes (ZAR 10, 20, 50) are handy for tips.
Credit and debit cards are accepted at major stores. A fee-free international card such as Revolut or Wise can be handy.
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Many travellers will base themselves in areas such as Rosebank or Sandton, where the malls and major hotel brands are. We stayed at both Holiday Inn and Voco Rosebank, which was conveniently co-located in a shopping area and the Gautrain station. We had no issues walking around within this area.
I wouldn't recommend staying downtown.
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The Gautrain operates from O.R. Tambo International Airport to many areas including the aforementioned Rosebank and Sandton. These are modern trains and the stations are well-staffed. However, it is a bit expensive at A$18 one-way per person, so you might want to consider a rideshare. Uber is cheap and easy to use, but at the airport, beware of anyone coming up to you and asking you to cancel your ride and go with them.
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Everyone treats tipping differently, but it is generally expected in South Africa. We tipped around ZAR 10 (about A$0.85) for services such as porters in hotels and refuelling our car at petrol stations. At restaurants, we added 10-15% to the bill. At the safari lodges, we tipped our guide about 150 ZAR (~A$12.6) a day, but pooled at the end.
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South Africa manages its power shortage with intermittent planned outages called loadshedding. In practice, this shouldn't affect you too much.
Most hotels and businesses have generators that work during the downtime. At the Holiday Inn, the only inconvenience we experienced was the air conditioning shutting off during loadshedding. At the time of writing, there is no loadshedding scheduled, but this can change.
TIP: you can use IHG Rewards points to book the Holiday Inn or Voco (pictured) in Johannesburg. We used 24,000 pts per night with no extra to pay.
We’ve chosen to stay in Rosebank, a location that blends convenience with charm. The hotels here are perfectly situated near a bustling array of shops — from quirky boutiques to supermarkets stocked with every snack imaginable. One gem I come across is UNIQ, a store offering great-value everyday clothing. Their elastic-waisted long pants have become my go-to for long-haul travel. (Yes, UNIQ is also a Uniqlo knock-off brand).
On Sundays, the top floor of the Rosebank Mall carpark transforms into a vibrant market. There’s plenty of food from a wide range of cultures. We leave with full bellies, and also a cute set of wooden giraffe-head salad serving spoons.
CITY SIGHTSEEING and Apartheid Museum
Our Johannesburg adventure begins at dawn. With a whole day ahead and no access to our hotel until later, we hop on the City Sightseeing bus. Given Johannesburg's vast sprawl and our tight schedule, the bus proves to be the perfect way to explore. It conveniently departs from right outside our hotel, the Holiday Inn. Can’t beat that for convenience!
The bus, arriving every 40 minutes, takes us to key landmarks. Constitution Hill, where Nelson Mandela and Mahatma Gandhi were once imprisoned, is a sobering stop. Wandering through the old prison cells offers a tangible sense of the despair felt by the political prisoners.
Another essential visit is the Apartheid Museum. Here, we receive two different tickets — one for ‘Whites’ and one for ‘Non-Whites’ — a stark reminder of the segregation that marked South Africa’s past. The museum’s exhibits powerfully convey the suffering endured under Apartheid’s harsh rule.
City Sightseeing 1-Day Hop On-Hop Off Ticket: ZAR 279 (~A$23.5) per adult. Museum entry costs extra, but the bus ticket grants discounts at some locations.
(L:) Exploring the cells at Constitution Hill.
(R:) The Apartheid Museum makes a statement from the start with ‘segregated’ ticket entrances.
Soweto Bike Tour
The highlight of our brief Johannesburg stop is a hosted bicycle tour of the township of Soweto. Run by Mpumelelo with a fabulous 4.98/5 rating on Airbnb, the tour offers an unfiltered look at life in Soweto. We share a beer with locals at a nearby shop (Soweto Gold is refreshing on a hot day) and savour Kota, a street burger made from a loaf of bread filled with fries, mini sausages, cheese, and spicy salad — essentially a loaded garlic bread.
But life in Soweto isn’t all rosy. The local metro train line is out of action because all the overhead cables were pillaged during COVID-19. We also cycled past a shanty town with little running water and illegal connections to the power grid. Going in is optional, but we decide to as we are able to tip the guide who would pass funds on to families that needed it.
Going back to the main town centre, we also visit sights such as the Nelson Mandela House and the Hector Pieterson Museum. Bring more cash if you want to barter at the markets nearby – we buy a stone-carved set of bookends, fashioned in the head and tail of a rhino!
The people of Soweto are incredibly welcoming, making our tour both enjoyable and insightful.
(L:) Chatting to locals over Soweto Gold. (ML:) The local train line is overgrown and missing its overhead cables.
(MR:) We were invited to walk through a slum in Soweto (and tipped the guide appropriately). (R:) Enjoying the local Kota from a food truck.
Soweto Bicycle Experience on Airbnb Experiences: ~A$64 per adult.
Dinner at Marble Restaurant
During our final night in Jo’burg, we treat ourselves to dinner at Marble Restaurant, one of the best in the city. While it’s a splurge by local standards, it’s quite reasonable in Australian Dollars. We end up spending about A$120, treating ourselves to a full spread of drinks, appetizers, mains, and dessert, plus the customary tip.
The five-star treatment starts at the door and we’re promptly seated in front of the restaurant’s impressive cellar. Then comes a complimentary dish of fresh bread with butter and a delicious pumpkin dipping sauce, just to whet our appetite.
Out of the two starters, the wood-fired octopus (ZAR 215, ~A$18.1) is a masterpiece in cooking. Perfectly plump pieces of grilled octopus are perfectly paired with crispy roast potatoes. I order the Marble ‘Avo Ritz’ (ZAR 185, ~A$15.6) with coal-fired prawn tails.
We settle on a main each, but in hindsight, one would suffice. When both loaded plates arrive, we look at each other in unison, both knowing we are going to struggle with finishing the mains. I opt for the wood-fired rib-eye (ZAR 375, ~A$32), grilled to perfection, while my wife settles on the grilled pork belly with a honey and miso glaze (ZAR 265, ~A$22.3).
I’ve never believed in a ‘second stomach’ for dessert, but we eke out just enough space to enjoy a singular ice cream sandwich (ZAR 95, ~A$8.1).
(TL:) Complimentary bread on arrival. (TM:) Marble ‘Avo Ritz’. (TR:) Grilled octopus.
(BL:) Wood-fired rib-eye. (BM:) Miso and honey glaze pork belly. (BR:) Ice cream sandwich with berry sorbet.
Book a table at Marble Restaurant
Final Thoughts
After dinner, we Uber back to the Holiday Inn. Over the last two days, our bags are laden with souvenirs and snacks. The following week, before our flight home, we’re staying at the nearby Voco, so we drop off some items there for safekeeping. With our shopping off our shoulders, it's time to take on Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge.
Johannesburg is a city rich with diverse cultures and compelling stories. It’s worth a visit, even if it’s just a stopover on your way elsewhere. As long as you base yourself in busy areas like Rosebank and choose trusted transport and tours, you’re sure to have a rewarding experience.
